sabato 29 settembre 2012

Calabria to taste

 


Calabria to taste

 


How to make a good Salsiccia di Calabria PDO ( protected designation of origin)
In this brief presentation I am first going to explain some of the differences between Italian salami. I will then illustrate how the meat paste is made and a brief description of the maturation process. At the end of my presentation I will show you how to cook the Salsiccia di Calabria PDO.
So first, why should you buy Salsiccia PDO? It is the most known salami of southern part of Italy, its territory of origin encompasses all provinces of Calabria. The differences between the various kind of dry-cured Italian salami are due to the kind of meet they contain in, the proportion of the lean to fat, spices. Italian salami are different from region to region, they can be un-smoked or smoked, hot or sweet each with their own formulas, curing and maturation. Those of Calabria are redolent with red hot pepper in powder and wild fennel seeds, they are generally cured in a way that produce a light mold covering. Salsiccia PDO production has always been due to the presence and life activities of lactic acid bacteria (LAB) in the meat and the meat preparation area.

The meat paste
Regional traditions dictate the types of meat and fat used in the manufacture of salami. Calabrians love to use shoulders, cheecks and fillets. For fat they use “fat bellies”. Meat that are chopped or are a medium or large grind can be mixed fairly aggressively since the final product will not have a homogeneous texture of fat to lean. However, the fat in fine ground paste can become excessively smeared during the mixing and blending stage if it is not kept very cold. Mixing should be done under the most strict sanitary conditions; if you mix by hand, use sterile latex surgical gloves to prevent cross-contamination. Essential to the process of making fermented dry cured sausages is the presence of sugar in the form of glucose.
As you can see, the salt is essential because it is involved in the biochemical activities we call curing as well as the inhibition of some microorganisms found in the meat. Because LAB are salt tolerant, they get a jump start over less desiderable salt intolerant microorganisms. The purpose of the spices instead is to impart the desired the taste and aromas that the salami maker prefers. It is absolutely essential that you use fresh spices for consistent results. The meat paste is stuffed into casing and tied. The casing used must allow moisture to escape the salami throughout the manufacture. For Salsiccia PDO we use natural casing, because they are edible, they contribute to the overall taste of the salami.
Maturation process
The maturation process of salsiccia PDO production can be thought of being subdivided in three distinct phases: curing , incubating ( fermentation), and drying (aging); each of these phases require different conditions of temperatures and relative humidity.
  1. Curing phase
This is the beginning of the maturation process. This phase begins immediately upon the addition of salt. In the old, traditional method, after grinding and mixing, the paste was put under refrigeration for “holding period” of approximately 24-48 hours to cure. Generally the concentration of salt is 2.5-3.5% of the weight.
  1. Incubation phase
Some of the odour is generated by the enzymes in meat and digestive activities of the microorganisms that cause glycolysis, proteolysis, lipolysis and lipid oxidation. These chemical and enzymatic reactions during dry sausage fermentation process degrade porteins into peptides. Amino acids are further degraded into amines and other aroma compounds.
  1. The drying phase
After incubation, the salami are dried in order to lower the water content of the meat. At the conclusion of this phase, the salami can be held without refrigeration. The drying may last 30 days or more depending upon the diameter of the salami. The reduced availability of water prevents growth of spoilage bacteria.

Method of cooking a good Salsiccia
The sausage can be eaten roasted on hot coals after a week of maturation, or it can be eaten in thin raw slices after a complete drying phase accompanied with a slice of sourdough bread and a glass of red wine.
Enjoy it

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The Gastronomist- Il Paladino del Gusto by Giuseppe Salvatore PALADINO di Amendolara is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribuzione - Non commerciale - Non opere derivate 3.0 Unported License.
Based on a work at http://www.gastropaladino.blogspot.it/